
Vega de Valcarce to Triacastelas

It was both jarring and awe-inspiring to come across these spans after walking through villages of stone huts and cobblestone streets only minutes before. These bridges cross the mountain valleys for Spain’s equivalent of interstate highways.

These little yellow arrows spray-painted on sidewalks, trees, buildings, and here – on the end of a guardrail – are the primary guides for Camino pilgrims in the wilderness as well as the cities. Nothing gives more comfort than the assurance of spotting one of these up ahead.

The Camino path in this area is often below grade – lower than the surround fields. Although this may obscure the views much of the time, it also helps us stay out of the wind and rain.

I have now entered Galicia. Spelling, pronunciation, music, food, and ethnic heritage changes dramatically again. This was a Celtic land well before the Romans arrived. The music and other cultural threads still bear witness. The independent spirit may be as strong here as in the Basque region of Navarre.

It is difficult to see the steep incline here, but this is the last section of a long climb as steep as a stairway. Behind where I stood to take photo is a bar/cafe the does a brisk business with hungry and thirsty pilgrims.

In O Cebreiro. About a half hour earlier, I’d met this kind Franciscan in the church, stamping sillos in pilgrim credentials and answering questions.