Terradillos de los Templarios to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

Terradillos de los Templarios to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

A small labyrinth created in found stones at a rest stop.

A small labyrinth created in found stones at a rest stop.

 Alfonzo VI, a king of León. But no, not those Kings of Leon: KingsofLeon.com

Alfonzo VI, a king of León. But no, not those Kings of Leon: KingsofLeon.com

The marker asserting Sahagún as the halfway point of the Camino Frances. Sahagún is also where the Camino Madrid joins the Camino Frances.

The marker asserting Sahagún as the halfway point of the Camino Frances. Sahagún is also where the Camino Madrid joins the Camino Frances.

Ruins of the monastery of San Fagun and San Primitivo in Sahagún. Much of the structure was destroyed by wars in the 19th century.

Ruins of the monastery of San Fagun and San Primitivo in Sahagún. Much of the structure was destroyed by wars in the 19th century.

The fruit vendor at the Saturday morning market in Sahagún.

The fruit vendor at the Saturday morning market in Sahagún.

And this stall offers canned tuna and bonito, as well as jars of white asparagus.

And this stall offers canned tuna and bonito, as well as jars of white asparagus.

A stall in Sahagún offering a diversified product line of salt fish and dried beans.

A stall in Sahagún offering a diversified product line of salt fish and dried beans.

In Sahagún. While waiting for the phone store to open so that I could renew my SIM card, I had a chocolate croissant and cafe au lait - the best I've tasted since leaving Paris. A sign in the window read "Nous parlons le français ici." Jacques, behind the counter, was delighted with my Spanish and to tell me about the town. He also told me to enjoy the market in the plaza mayor out front, but to be careful. "It is not dangerous, but some people have sticky fingers. Guard your pockets."

In Sahagún. While waiting for the phone store to open so that I could renew my SIM card, I had a chocolate croissant and cafe au lait – the best I’ve tasted since leaving Paris. A sign in the window read “Nous parlons le français ici.” Jacques, behind the counter, was delighted with my Spanish and to tell me about the town. He also told me to enjoy the market in the plaza mayor out front, but to be careful. “It is not dangerous, but some people have sticky fingers. Guard your pockets.”

Santiago a mere 315 kms to go, más o menos.  The hand-lettered advisory above the stone notes that Hamburg is 1,670 kms and Budapest is 1,980 kms. Because the more you know . . .

Santiago a mere 315 kms to go, más o menos. The hand-lettered advisory above the stone notes that Hamburg is 1,670 kms and Budapest is 1,980 kms. Because the more you know . . .

These sweetly fragrant trees lined much of the path leading out of Sahagún. One of the women working at the albergue later in the day told me these were "jamin" - jasmine.

These sweetly fragrant trees lined much of the path leading out of Sahagún. One of the women working at the albergue later in the day told me these were “jamin” – jasmine.

Mile from anything, a sudden overpass to cross a rail line.

Mile from anything, a sudden overpass to cross a rail line.

Out of nowhere, the path rose to cross the railroad coming out of Sahagún. This one was carrying coal.

Out of nowhere, the path rose to cross the railroad coming out of Sahagún. This one was carrying coal.

Wild lavender along the roadside.

Wild lavender along the roadside.

After an eight mile walk under a hot, cloudless sky and nothing but fields or scrub forest, there appeared a tiny wayside park with a natural spring fountain: a "Fuente del Peregrino."

After an eight mile walk under a hot, cloudless sky and nothing but fields or scrub forest, there appeared a tiny wayside park with a natural spring fountain: a “Fuente del Peregrino.”

Now, here's a great spot for a private picnic, perhaps with a nap.

Now, here’s a great spot for a private picnic, perhaps with a nap.

A freshly plowed field. Sure, they're everywhere. But look at that crisp horizon.

A freshly plowed field. Sure, they’re everywhere. But look at that crisp horizon.

When we walked out of the church in Calzeda de los Hermanillos, we found this waiting for us.

When we walked out of the church in Calzeda de los Hermanillos, we found this waiting for us.

I found this interesting house walking back the albergue after a pilgrim service in Calzeda de los Hermanillos.

I found this interesting house walking back the albergue after a pilgrim service in Calzeda de los Hermanillos.