
Terradillos de los Templarios to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

The marker asserting Sahagún as the halfway point of the Camino Frances. Sahagún is also where the Camino Madrid joins the Camino Frances.

Ruins of the monastery of San Fagun and San Primitivo in Sahagún. Much of the structure was destroyed by wars in the 19th century.

In Sahagún. While waiting for the phone store to open so that I could renew my SIM card, I had a chocolate croissant and cafe au lait – the best I’ve tasted since leaving Paris. A sign in the window read “Nous parlons le français ici.” Jacques, behind the counter, was delighted with my Spanish and to tell me about the town. He also told me to enjoy the market in the plaza mayor out front, but to be careful. “It is not dangerous, but some people have sticky fingers. Guard your pockets.”

Santiago a mere 315 kms to go, más o menos. The hand-lettered advisory above the stone notes that Hamburg is 1,670 kms and Budapest is 1,980 kms. Because the more you know . . .

These sweetly fragrant trees lined much of the path leading out of Sahagún. One of the women working at the albergue later in the day told me these were “jamin” – jasmine.

Out of nowhere, the path rose to cross the railroad coming out of Sahagún. This one was carrying coal.